The annual AFA Fashion Expo is a little known Canadian trade show for footwear, apparel, and accessories.  It’s operated by the Association of Footwear + Apparel (AFA) Canada, and while it’s not open to the public, it is a very important event for retailers, buyers, and suppliers to connect and discover new trends. The 2025 AFA Expo was held at the Toronto Congress Centre at 650 Dixon Rd., and ran for three days from August 12th to August 14th. This fashion tradeshow is known for showcasing a wide range of brands and styles, including emerging sustainable brands, and while ​it’s not all shoes, ninety percent of the exhibitors are selling footwear.

I visited the AFA Canada Fashion Expo on Tuesday to see what I could learn about the fashion industry in general, and the commerce that happens at this event.

“Our association has been around since 1967 under various names. Now under the trade name of AFA Canada. We produce the largest footwear trade show across the country, and draw exhibitors and retailers from coast to coast. We are considered the National Show in the category.” says Michelle Kofman, AFA Canada, Operations & Events. She explained to me how this is a buying show and exhibitors are selling for Spring and Summer 2026 seasons with deliveries in February, March, and April. The intention of AFA Expo (formerly Toronto Shoe Show) is to create a space where retailers can buy all of their seasonal footwear under one roof to save time and reduce travel.  “It’s also an opportunity to pick up new business and in fact several exhibitors told us they met new people and picked up new accounts.”

I asked if the show was becoming more or less popular, and Michelle replied, “it’s not really about popularity, but more about relevance. Is this trade show format still relevant in 2025? Or do we need to shake things up a bit? How can we shake things up?”

The show was busy; there were 102 exhibitors promoting 243 brands. The AFA Expo is funded by AFA Canada which is a Not for Profit. “We are member-based, but exhibitors do not have to be members to exhibit. Members receive discounted show fees to non-members,” Michelle also tells me their partner association is CFIB (Cdn Federation of Independent Business), and AFA members also receive a full membership there.

Threads to Treads is Michelle and Jamoi’s own well formatted newsletter which they issue in connection with AFA Canada. Their monthly periodical chronicles the Canadian footwear industry and was created to replace an earlier publication called the Canadian Footwear Journal.  Jamoi Smith is the Marketing & Content Coordinator for Threads to Treads and he doubles as the AFA Expo – Floor Manager.

Jamoi has the interesting job of doing marketing and communications for the event. He’s the right man for the job, because he was very friendly and greeted me warmly, giving me an all-access entry badge and pointing me in the direction of free coffee and snacks.

Are you a Shopify store owner looking for stuff to sell online? I met two such people milling about, and they readily gave up their business cards because they’re always selling, and part of their mandate is to meet new people and promote their online properties.

Are there any bargains to be found at the AFA Canada Expo?

When I spoke to exhibitors, and asked the price of things, the shoe company’s sales representatives invariably told me the suggested retail price, and not the juicy rock-bottom manufacturer’s cost I was seeking.  That’s because, 1) they work to ensure a price consistency in the marketplace, but also 2) the wholesale price is entirely dependent on the size of your order.  Buyers for major department stores can secure lower pricing by purchasing in greater volume.

Paul Levesque is descended from merchants who have operated a general store in Sturgeon Falls, Ontario, for over one hundred and twenty five years. Sturgeon Falls is a French speaking community near the Quebec border and they are very fashion-aware. The residents in this remote community expect local retailers to sell the footwear they see on American television and in European style magazines. 

Michaud & Levesque is a family owned business which opened in 1887, and while the family ownership hasn’t changed in the entire time, the merchandise is always changing to best match the needs of the community. Paul Levesque, the current co-owner, comes to the show each year looking for all types of boots and shoes.

Omolola Adeyemi of OvaAfrique imports and sells products from West Africa. She chooses her inventory carefully with consumers in mind, and has a personal relationship with the goods’ creators. At the show, she told me how each piece celebrates the beauty, diversity, and vibrancy of Africa, but should compliment any lifestyle.

OvaAfrique imports handbags, accessories and other unique products from West Africa

OvaAfrique imports handbags and jewellery from Africa to her home base in Halifax, Nova Scotia.  She only selects the most innovative, eye catching designs. Each item is handwoven with locally produced fabrics. Some are made from Aso oke, for example, and many have the striking patterns of Ankara, and the one-of-a-kind artistry of adire, which we might call Tie-dye.

OvaAfrica envision a global community which appreciates the beauty of cultural heritage and promotes diversity. The bags and jewellery aim to inspire confidence, self-expression, and a strong sense of belonging.

Margarita Papoutsis and Dia Stamadianos from Mile End Kicks at AFA Expo 2025

Mile End Kicks exhibited at the AFA Expo for the first time, debuting their branded footwear to retailers from across Canada. Everything on display is made in Spain, Portugal and other euro countries, which is important because it exempts them from the US tariffs. Margarita Papoutsis and Dia Stamadianos didn’t event mention this political challenge when we spoke; they talked shoes and TIFF movies.

Mile End Kicks is the name of a busy sneaker shop in the Mile End neighbourhood of Montreal. The enterprise began in 2001 and steadily grew into one of Montreal’s hippest and most profitable shoe stores, selling many cool brands and dominating sneaker sales. The next step was to make their own shoes, and that’s just what they did, designing and manufacturing their own canvas and leather sneakers in Europe where they routinely visit to ensure the workers are paid fair wages and their practice is environmentally sustainable.

Mile End is the name of one of Montreal’s most charming neighbourhoods. The area is filled with independent beauty salons, clothing boutiques, antiques shops, bakeries, sidewalk cafes and restaurants. MEK owner Sam Papoutsis was born in this part of town and spent his childhood kicking up dust on Park Ave. He always felt a deep attachment to Mile End, and after returning from trips, and from his job in NYC, he would visit Mile End first, getting his coffee and bagels before seeing his family.

Mile End Kicks is also the name of a 2025 TIFF entry, an independent feature film submitted by Toronto director Chandler Levack. The film portrays the music scene in Montreal’s Mile End neighbourhood, which gave rise to some of Canada’s most successful music acts including Arcade Fire, Grimes and Godspeed You! Black Emperor.

At noon I met Sam Spears of Ara Shoes Canada, and we talked for half-an-hour discussing Trump and the garment industry’s reaction to trade tariffs.  Ara is a family-owned German shoemaker and footwear industry leader for over a century. Most of their product is made in Europe in factories they own and control. They’re known for prioritizing comfort, and for using high quality materials with attractive designs. Sam relates how the company values its relationship with Canadians. “With our German design team working more and more closely with us in Canada, our collection is becoming more and more relevant to the Canadian market.”

Sam told me that Ara exhibits at the AFA Canada Expo with two objectives: Firstly, they’re here to support the Canadian footwear industry and Canada’s retail community by participating in a show that brings the best boots, shoes and accessories together in one place and makes it easy for smaller retailers to buy for this current season and for future seasons. “We believe in supporting the industry and shop owners. It’s a symbiotic relationship. We need each other.” Sam says, and the second objective is to present Ara’s 2026 collection to existing accounts to show them the latest products. This is helpful because it gives the merchandiser the opportunity to shop for next season and get their consumers ready for upcoming trends and tease them with images displaying what’s coming to the store in six months.”

Unfamiliar with the shoe trade and current fashions, I asked some ridiculous questions. I wondered if animal print sneakers was a new trend? In reply, Mr. Spears said; “animal print, especially leopard, is always in style. It’s like a timeless style element that can be worn with almost any apparel, daytime or at night. It’s elegant and playful at the same time.” He went on to say, “Ara has been using several different animal prints for years. Leopard, cheetah, snake, you name it. We even have a material we call Teddy that’s similar to Chenille in that it’s a plush pile and fuzzy like a stuffed teddy bear. And that’s been really fun to present. We like to be playful in our collection but always on trend – or sometimes ahead of trend – to show product leadership in the fashion comfort footwear segment.”

Have leopard prints always been popular? I’m thinking of the hit Netflix documentary series Tiger King, and how it might have affected this art movement. Sam says, “animal prints wax and wane year to year, and sometimes even season to season. But in general, animal prints are timeless. They can provide an element of surprise or ‘pop’ on a shoe. The print can be bold, like all-over where the entire shoe is animal print, or it can a ‘secret’, a tiny piece (like on the heel tab or tongue top) to provide a bit of ‘conceal and reveal’, you know, a bit of mystery to exhibit if you’re so inclined. The wearer always knows it’s there and so choosing to reveal the print is amazingly powerful!”

Sam tells me that Ara’s top selling shoes in this market, here in Ontario, Canada, are their two sneakers Rei Lo and Ovation, followed by the Nova sandal, and the company is doing well here because their shoes are popular. “The August AFA Show has been a wonderful surprise. Given all the economic and political mayhem, both local and global, it would be understandable for retailers to be pessimistic. However, I’ve seen the Canadian retailer is as resilient as ever, and with a “CAN DO” spirit of adapting. They’re improvising and overcoming every obstacle. Instead of gloom & doom, the accounts we’ve been meeting are ready for the obstacles they’re facing and are optimistic they’ll successfully navigate the challenges. The Canadian retailer is clever and very entrepreneurial, and I have great faith in this market.”

Pajar is a Canadian brand specializing in footwear and outerwear, known for its performance-driven designs and use of waterproof materials. Founded in 1963 in Montreal, Pajar is a family-owned company with a long history of craftsmanship. They are recognized for blending modern industrial design with traditional techniques, creating products that are both functional and aesthetically pleasing.

Portofino is a comfort shoe brand specializing in orthotic-friendly footwear, made in Spain, Italy, and Portugal, with a philosophy centered on “Better shoes, better life.” Founded officially in 1959, the company built its reputation on quality children’s shoes adhering to orthopedic standards and later expanded into adult footwear. Around the year 2000, responding to an active aging population and demand for stylish orthopaedic shoes, Portofino focused on creating aesthetically pleasing, high-quality shoes available in various colors that work well with or without orthotics. Its retailers include orthotic and pedorthic clinics, cobblers and shoe repair shops, fitting centers, and specialized shoe stores offering expert fitting, modification, and care services to ensure optimal comfort and fit for customers. These retail partners are trusted for their expertise in orthopaedic shoe needs and customer support.

Anzia shoes, specifically the Portofino Anzia line, are a type of women’s footwear known for their orthotic-friendly design and comfort features. They are characterized by features like removable insoles for custom orthotics, adjustable straps, and a comfortable fit, often suitable for various foot conditions. The shoes are made in Portugal, with a focus on quality materials like leather and polyurethane.

Anzia’s cow print shoes are sure to be hot stuff next year. Animal prints are definitely in style for 2026, with leopard and zebra prints being the most prominent patterns. While leopard has long been a fashion staple, zebra print is emerging as a strong contender. Other animal prints like snake and cow print are also making appearances on runways and in fashion social media.

Artificial leather shoes are made from synthetic materials and designed to mimic the look and feel of real leather. They offer a more affordable and more versatile alternative to genuine leather, with various styles and colors available. Faux leather has drawbacks however, and they include a lack of breathability, a less natural feel, and potentially shorter lifespan compared to real leather.

Natalie Gangbar from Gangbar Marketing was at the show exhibiting shoes and boots from Ilse Jacobsen Hornbæk. She spent the morning arranging hundreds of items from their catalogue which included rainwear, dresses, shoes, accessories, and an exclusive beauty series.

Tulip sneakers boast a recycled microfiber upper body and a natural rubber outsole stitched with recycled thread, eliminating the need for glue. These slip-on flats are popular for their comfort, flexibility, and breathability, making them suitable for everyday wear and travel.

Ilse Jacobsen’s shoe collection is known for combining femininity with functionality and timeless designs. Her shoes are designed to balance style and practicality with unique, innovative features such as breathable materials and artistic designs.

Ilse Jacobsen was born in Hornbæk, on Denmark’s north coast, and her brand name is Ilse Jacobsen Hornbæk. This designer and enterprise is known for its iconic rubber boots, which are both functional and stylish. The brand is recognized internationally and is sold in thirty countries, often in the most fashionable department stores.

Jason Cunningham is an outdoor & athletic footwear specialist with over fifteen years in the footwear industry and extensive trade show experience.  He understands what a retailer needs to succeed in any market, and can effectively identify gaps in their current offerings. He presents options for any brand to fill these gaps and grow their business.

The sock industry is being trampled by tariffs. Jason told me how wool socks have it the worst, because trade tariffs have made them so expensive.  Today, importing socks from Asia means paying a staggering seventy-five percent tariff. The total is an amalgamation of existing trade tariffs plus the new Trump tariffs, and the arithmetic could be written as, 13.5 + 7.5 + 10 + 10 + 34 = 75%.  This new cost drastically alters the landscape for importing knitwear products and is already causing ripples throughout the supply chain. Neither the USA or Canada has the capacity, technology, or skilled labor force to produce socks at the necessary scale and variety as seen in the market today. Even if you had the money to build scalable factories, all the machinery needed to make the socks would have to be imported, thus subject to tariffs. Additionally, a domestic labour force would have to be hired and trained, and so it could take years to achieve the same level of efficiency the industry now enjoys.

Stefano was present when Papillon International was founded in 1983, and he’s the sales manager today. Papillon is based in Montreal and is one of our nation’s largest footwear importers. Stefano tells me how the company built a strong reputation and loyal customer base by partnering with prominent retailers across three continents. With sales offices in Montreal and New York, Papillon relies on its Hong Kong buyers to secure the most fashionable goods made with the most high-quality materials while employing best-practices manufacturing. For decades, the company has consistently delivered high-value products and exceptional service at competitive prices.

AFA Canada Fashion Expo is filled with free stuff for attendees. There are SWAG bags with exhibitors’ sales brochures, a squeeze tub stain remover, a battery-powered laser pen, and perfume samples. The tradeshow has refreshment stations with complimentary coffee and chocolate pastries, and there was a gelato bar in front of an Italian shoe company’s booth. That’s a nice touch. A gelato bar at a tradeshow offers a delightful and refreshing experience. It provided a unique opportunity to sample six different flavors, which can be further customized with toppings. Several companies were employed to cater the event, but the gelato dispensary was the best.