The world of horology is filled with remarkable watches, but when it comes to personal favourites in the Grand Seiko lineup, few models stand out like the Grand Seiko White Birch SLGH005 and Black Birch SLGH017G from the Evolution 9 collection.
These timepieces not only encapsulate the core values of Grand Seiko but also resonate on a deeply personal level, embodying the ideal fusion of nature, precision engineering, and timeless design. For us, they are not only the best of the Evolution 9 series but our favourite watches in the entire Grand Seiko collection.
Why the White Birch and Black Birch stand out
In our journey through Grand Seiko’s expansive lineup, we have come across many exceptional watches, but the White Birch and Black Birch hold a special place. These watches elevate the traditional design elements of Grand Seiko to new heights, making them truly unparalleled in their class.
The White Birch, with its shimmering, textured silver-white dial, evokes a feeling of tranquillity and natural beauty, reminiscent of the white birch forests near the Shizukuishi Studio in Japan. It perfectly captures the serene majesty of these forests, allowing you to carry a piece of nature on your wrist.
Meanwhile, the Black Birch SLGH017G, with its dark and mysterious dial, provides a striking contrast. The deep black hue represents the quiet, shadowy atmosphere of these forests at night, creating a sense of intrigue and sophistication.
This design is not just about aesthetics; it’s about capturing the essence of nature at different times of the day—light and shadow, day and night—making these two watches the perfect companions.
Evolution 9: A design language we love
The Evolution 9 design language, central to both the White Birch and Black Birch, is the backbone of what makes these watches so special. As enthusiasts, we are drawn to the way these timepieces adhere to the three core principles of Evolution 9: aesthetics, legibility, and comfort.
Aesthetic evolution:
The focus on Japanese nature and the interplay of light and shadow are captivating elements. The combination of Zaratsu polishing and hairline finishing on the cases creates a dynamic visual experience that is simply mesmerizing.
The flat surfaces of the case reflect light in a distortion-free way, while the textured dials add depth and dimension. The duality of nature, embodied in both the White and Black Birch models, appeals to our sense of balance and harmony.
Unmatched legibility:
Grand Seiko’s dedication to making time easy to read is something we highly appreciate. The bold, multi-faceted hands and deeply grooved indices ensure that these watches can be read in any lighting condition.
Whether in a well-lit room or dimly lit environment, the sharpness of the hands and indices makes time-telling effortless. This is a crucial aspect of what we seek in a watch—beauty that doesn’t compromise function.
For us, comfort is non-negotiable, and the Evolution 9 principles deliver. The watches are designed with a low centre of gravity, ensuring they sit comfortably and securely on the wrist without excessive movement. This feature makes them ideal for long-term wear, whether at formal events or casual outings.
The White Birch SLGH005, crafted from stainless steel, maintains the ideal balance of weight and durability, offering a robust yet refined feel on the wrist. On the other hand, the Black Birch SLGH017G elevates comfort to another level, as it is made from high-grade titanium.
This material not only enhances the watch’s durability but also significantly reduces its weight, making it even lighter and more comfortable for extended wear. We’ve worn both for extended periods, and neither ever feels too heavy or cumbersome—a testament to Grand Seiko’s thoughtful and precise design.
Technical excellence that resonates
What really sets these watches apart, however, is the technical mastery behind them. Both the White Birch and Black Birch are powered by Grand Seiko’s revolutionary Caliber 9SA5 movement, which represents a significant leap in mechanical watchmaking. With an impressive 80-hour power reserve, these high-beat watches operate at 36,000 vibrations per hour, offering extraordinary precision.
The 9SA5 movement’s Dual Impulse Escapement and twin barrel system are engineering marvels that ensure these watches perform at the highest level of accuracy. As collectors and enthusiasts, we value technical innovation as much as design, and the 9SA5 movement is a standout in the world of horology.
Best in class
Among the extensive Grand Seiko lineup, the White Birch and Black Birch hold the distinction of being our personal favourites for several reasons. First and foremost, they embody the perfect marriage of nature-inspired design and cutting-edge technology. The White Birch, with its bright, textured dial, and the Black Birch, with its moody, deep black dial, offer two distinct takes on a singular theme. Both watches beautifully balance innovation with tradition, a hallmark of Grand Seiko.
Secondly, they are versatile—appropriate for a wide range of occasions, whether formal or casual. The attention to detail, from the Zaratsu-polished surfaces to the intricately grooved indices, ensures that these watches always stand out, no matter where they are worn.
Finally, they are some of the most comfortable watches we’ve had the pleasure of wearing. The Evolution 9 principles ensure that these timepieces don’t just look good, they feel good, too. Their low centre of gravity and wide lugs make for a perfectly balanced watch that sits snugly on the wrist, adding to the experience of wearing a true luxury timepiece.
Case specifications we appreciate
Both the White Birch and Black Birch share impressive specifications that contribute to their appeal. The case diameter of 40.0mm, lug-to-lug length of 47.0mm, and thickness of 11.7mm make them well-proportioned and easy to wear. The 22mm band width adds stability, and the three-fold clasp with push-button release ensures security and ease of use. Additionally, the see-through screw case back allows us to admire the exquisite craftsmanship of the 9SA5 movement—an element that never fails to impress.
The anti-reflective sapphire crystal ensures that the dial is always easy to see, while the box-shaped crystal adds a subtle, vintage touch that complements the modern design language.
The pinnacle of Grand Seiko
When we consider the breadth of the Grand Seiko collection, the White Birch SLGH005 and Black Birch SLGH017G stand out as our personal favourites. Their nature-inspired designs, technical prowess, and focus on comfort make them not only the best of the Evolution 9 collection but also some of the finest timepieces in the world.
For us, they represent the pinnacle of what Grand Seiko stands for—artistry, innovation, and craftsmanship. These watches are more than just tools for telling time; they are wearable works of art, and they hold a special place in our collection.
Images: Grand Seiko
Mark Harrison (left) is a luxury watch connoisseur, having travelled to some of world’s top international watch and jewellery events and trade shows, in particular Baselworld, held every spring in Basel, Switzerland. Baselworld is a must-attend week on the calendar for watch lovers, and Mark will be in attendance again this year. He writes regularly on trends in luxury watches for Regarding Luxury.
